The girlfriend has just noticed (ok, I've had to point it out to her) 
that she's getting a small patch of rust just starting to bubble through 
the paintwork on the sill around the area of the rear of the passenger 
door - car is a '98 Ford Ka3, BTW (aha, explains the rust).

Car colour is a light metallic blue, so I'm somewhat loathed to try to 
aerosol this, and she's not too worried about the aethsetics of the job 
("it's the passenger side, I never see this"), so...

Is there any simple product that can be applied that halts the rust and 
leaves a protective coating?

Would I be better sanding down to the metal (aha, a job for the dremmel) 
and coating with a rust-proof layer of some description?, again, products?

Just how easy would it be to colour match a metallic blue paint on a 98 
car?, out of a aerosol, and how much am I looking at spending?

I need to sort this out for her - otherwise she'll just leave it to get 
worse and worse until she fails an MoT.

It's virtually impossible to cure rust completely. There are a lot of 
supposed rust cures, e.g. Jenolite, but they never really work. You could 
try rubbing off the rust, painting with Jenolite and then applying aerosol 
but it's not easy and unless you use a filler to smooth the surface you'll 
get an uneven finish. The best way is to get some Isopon, and make a patch 
about 1/4" thick to cover the area. Make the patch separately from the car, 
smooth and finish it with the right paint, then stick it on with black 
silicone sealant. It will stop any more air and water getting at the metal 
and it will look part of the car. Nobody will ever notice it because it will 
appear to be manufacturer's original.

Rob Graham

"Mike Dodd" <no-address@lo0> wrote in message
news:42c0f056$0$6475$cc9e4d1f@news-text.dial.pipex.com...

> The girlfriend has just noticed (ok, I've had to point it out to her)
> that she's getting a small patch of rust just starting to bubble through
> the paintwork on the sill around the area of the rear of the passenger
> door - car is a '98 Ford Ka3, BTW (aha, explains the rust).
>
> Car colour is a light metallic blue, so I'm somewhat loathed to try to
> aerosol this, and she's not too worried about the aethsetics of the job
> ("it's the passenger side, I never see this"), so...
>
> Is there any simple product that can be applied that halts the rust and
> leaves a protective coating?
>
> Would I be better sanding down to the metal (aha, a job for the dremmel)
> and coating with a rust-proof layer of some description?, again, products?
>
> Just how easy would it be to colour match a metallic blue paint on a 98
> car?, out of a aerosol, and how much am I looking at spending?
>
> I need to sort this out for her - otherwise she'll just leave it to get
> worse and worse until she fails an MoT.


I know not many people will agree with me but I'm a fan of Kurust. Slapped
some on a beat up old CF van and left it for years and there was never a
sign of any rust returning.
Don't know if there are any issues with painting over it tho'.

On Tue, 28 Jun 2005 07:49:44 +0000, Rob graham wrote:


> It's virtually impossible to cure rust completely. There are a lot of 
> supposed rust cures, e.g. Jenolite, but they never really work. You could 
> try rubbing off the rust, painting with Jenolite and then applying aerosol 
> but it's not easy and unless you use a filler to smooth the surface you'll 
> get an uneven finish. The best way is to get some Isopon, and make a patch 
> about 1/4" thick to cover the area. Make the patch separately from the car, 
> smooth and finish it with the right paint, then stick it on with black 
> silicone sealant. It will stop any more air and water getting at the metal 
> and it will look part of the car. Nobody will ever notice it because it will 
> appear to be manufacturer's original.




That sound like an horrendous idea!  Rub it back to the metal on the rust
affected area.  Get as much rust off as you can.  Kurust the remaining
"tightly adhering"[1] rust.

Rub the entire door down with 800 # 1000 grit wet or dry paper, used wet. 
Allow to dry, obviously.  Spray affected area only, with slight overlap,
with a few coats of zinc based primer.  Mask of the rest of the car and
spray door with colour of car and give a few coats of lacquer when
finished.  Metallic paint MUST be lacquered.

It's a long jo, but if you do it right it will look all right and last. 
BTW, a rusty door will not fail an MOT, not until it rots so badly and
holes and ends up with sharp edges.  It may attract unwanted attention
from traffic plod though.

In article <d9qveo$b9e$1@nwrdmz02.dmz.ncs.ea.ibs-infra.bt.com>,
   Rob graham  wrote:

> It's virtually impossible to cure rust completely. There are a lot of 
> supposed rust cures, e.g. Jenolite, but they never really work.


It really depends on the type of rust. If it's come through from the back
of the panel, then you're correct. However, if it's surface rust caused by
a stone, etc, Jenolite works very well.

-- 
*Beauty is in the eye of the beer holder...

    Dave Plowman        dave@davenoise.co.uk           London SW
                  To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Rob graham (rttgrahamwow@btinternet.com) gurgled happily, sounding much
like they were saying : 


> The best way is to get
> some Isopon, and make a patch about 1/4" thick to cover the area. Make
> the patch separately from the car, smooth and finish it with the right
> paint, then stick it on with black silicone sealant.


Have I bought a car from you in the past?


> It will stop any
> more air and water getting at the metal and it will look part of the
> car. Nobody will ever notice it because it will appear to be
> manufacturer's original.


Ah, Mr Blunkett! It IS you!

g

> 
> 
> That sound like an horrendous idea!  Rub it back to the metal on the rust
> affected area.  Get as much rust off as you can.  Kurust the remaining
> "tightly adhering"[1] rust.
> 
> Rub the entire door down with 800 # 1000 grit wet or dry paper, used wet. 
> Allow to dry, obviously.  Spray affected area only, with slight overlap,
> with a few coats of zinc based primer.  Mask of the rest of the car and
> spray door with colour of car and give a few coats of lacquer when
> finished.  Metallic paint MUST be lacquered.
> 
> It's a long jo, but if you do it right it will look all right and last. 
> BTW, a rusty door will not fail an MOT, not until it rots so badly and
> holes and ends up with sharp edges.  It may attract unwanted attention
> from traffic plod though.
> 


Ah, my words...

"a small patch of rust just starting to bubble through the paintwork on 
the sill around the area of the rear of the passenger door"

I intended to indicate that the rust is ON the sill  - located on the 
sill at the point where the rear of the passenger door closes.

As such, the visible area is a small area close to the deck (largely out 
of direct sight), but physically part of the skin for the rest of the 
car (I really need to have a look, again, but she's working lates :/ )

I might talk her into letting me sand down to clean metal, and attempt a 
  small patch respray - like I said, the area is small and not obvious.

Mike Dodd wrote:

> The girlfriend has just noticed (ok, I've had to point it out to her)
> that she's getting a small patch of rust just starting to bubble
> through the paintwork on the sill around the area of the rear of the
> passenger door - car is a '98 Ford Ka3, BTW (aha, explains the rust).
>
> Car colour is a light metallic blue, so I'm somewhat loathed to try to
> aerosol this, and she's not too worried about the aethsetics of the
> job ("it's the passenger side, I never see this"), so...
>
> Is there any simple product that can be applied that halts the rust
> and leaves a protective coating?
>
> Would I be better sanding down to the metal (aha, a job for the
> dremmel) and coating with a rust-proof layer of some description?,
> again, products?
>
> Just how easy would it be to colour match a metallic blue paint on a
> 98 car?, out of a aerosol, and how much am I looking at spending?
>
> I need to sort this out for her - otherwise she'll just leave it to
> get worse and worse until she fails an MoT.


This is a known spot on Kas. Stones from the front wheel hit it and and chip
it as it stands slightly proud of the door. Great idea Ford. If they made
the doors fit properly in the first place it wouldn't happen.

Anyway, what you want to do is sand it back to bare metal, and paint it. Get
proper paint from a paint factors, who can match your paint code and put it
in a decent aerosol for you (all aerosols are not equal, better ones have
different nozzles, and some (Halfords) are terrible). Ford fitted little
bits of helicopter tape to this area on later cars. I've got a pair on my
shelf from my Ka that I never got around to fitting before I stuffed it into
a hedge. They're called something or other foils by ford and cost a tenner a
piece. Fiver to you?

"Adrian"  wrote in message 
news:Xns96836D076C47Aadrianachapmanfreeis@204.153.244.170...

> Rob graham (rttgrahamwow@btinternet.com) gurgled happily, sounding much
> like they were saying :
>
>> The best way is to get
>> some Isopon, and make a patch about 1/4" thick to cover the area. Make
>> the patch separately from the car, smooth and finish it with the right
>> paint, then stick it on with black silicone sealant.
>
> Have I bought a car from you in the past?
>
>> It will stop any
>> more air and water getting at the metal and it will look part of the
>> car. Nobody will ever notice it because it will appear to be
>> manufacturer's original.
>
> Ah, Mr Blunkett! It IS you!


I thought this might attract a few doubters. However, I've tried it and it 
works. It's even good where the metal has gone through. But if you can get 
Kurust to work, bully for you.

BTW, I've got a 1985 Isopon Deluxe cdi with not a scrap of rust if anyone 
cares to make me an offer. It's particularly good because it's got an 
exhaust made of Gun Gum. Last forever.

Rob

Rob graham (rttgrahamwow@btinternet.com) gurgled happily, sounding much
like they were saying : 


>>> The best way is to get
>>> some Isopon, and make a patch about 1/4" thick to cover the area.
>>> Make the patch separately from the car, smooth and finish it with
>>> the right paint, then stick it on with black silicone sealant.

>>> It will stop any
>>> more air and water getting at the metal and it will look part of the
>>> car. Nobody will ever notice it because it will appear to be
>>> manufacturer's original.

>> Ah, Mr Blunkett! It IS you!

> I thought this might attract a few doubters. However, I've tried it
> and it works. 


Mmmm. Yes, Mr Blunkett.


> It's even good where the metal has gone through.


No, it is not.

The ONLY proper fix if metal has gone through with rust - or is even 
seriously thinned - is to replace either the entire panel or to weld new 
metal in.

We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the
drugs began to take hold. I remember "Periproct"
 saying something like:


>I know not many people will agree with me but I'm a fan of Kurust. Slapped
>some on a beat up old CF van and left it for years and there was never a
>sign of any rust returning.


Ditto. Phosphoric acid based; so these days, I'd just use some
phosphoric acid which I happen to have a bit of.


>Don't know if there are any issues with painting over it tho'.


Seems to work fine.
-- 

Dave
SE6a